I am finally getting settled here in Phuket. I think I am done complaining ad nauseum about the heat in Thailand. The locals told me I would eventually get used to it. I guess I have. As much as one can get used to clothing against soggy skin and not a napkin in sight to wipe my face or anything else for that matter. You don't really do napkins or toilet paper here. For instance, instead of a roll of Charmin, the Thai bathroom has a sprayer mounted on the wall next to the toilet. Personally, this has been more difficult getting used to than the heat. I like a dry bottom, what can I say, but I will adjust in time to this custom I'm sure.
The tourism and expat demographic is dominated by Europeans. I spend a fair amount of time interacting with the Brits at Omalley's Irish Pub. We poke fun of one another and discuss Thai beer while I ignore the cricket game on TV. I've noticed that making fun of Americans is one of the Brits favorite past times aside from cricket and watching football. Sometimes I worship their cynicism. It's charming even.
Watching American media is/has been uh, embarrassing. As if Fox & Friends wasn't already horrifying state-side, it's the only US news coverage I get in my apartment! Here's what I hear from the shower: "The debate last night between Senator Clinton and Obama...and now for "strange baby names." One gleaming white-toothed reporter says to the other gleaming white-toothed reporter, "It's like the parents accidentally hit the keyboard and came up with a baby name,mwahahhahahah,(FOX News) mwhahahah! Back to you Gretchen." I don't know, it just seems so much more sinister from this vantage point, if that's even possible. And what happened to Nancy Grace? That late pregnant decision turned her kookoo for coco puffs. I think her next career move will be to breast feed the twins while interviewing Natalie Holloway's father--LIVE. And to think, I used to be a fan. 
Now step out of the West for a moment and in to the East. In the morning hours, the weather is cool and the Thai monks stroll the freshly swept streets collecting their daily offerings. They wear muted, orange robes and walk on clean, bare feet. The mangy street dogs have hobbled out of the shadows looking for scraps and the vendors, with little sense of urgency, are setting up their food stands for the day. Women are not allowed to touch Buddhist monks. I am quite nervous to get near them. I can't help but stare. I am a staring whore. So cane me. At any rate, between 6am and 11am is a very colorful part of the day. There is a calmness in the air that is really savored before the sun sends everyone indoors. The children are positioned loosely on their parents motorbikes headed off to school. The younger kids are streaked with a chalky white, prickly heat powder to protect their tiny faces from the sun.
Lee and I have carved out a few yummy places to eat. In Samkong, The Dairy Hut has scrumptious panang and massaman. Another new gem is a place called Farang, which transliterated means, "foreigner". Farang serves up tasty spinach lasagna and fresh salads which are both hard to come by. The staff at The Dairy Hut are youngish and quiet. The boys wear perfectly coiffed band hair, and in typical teenage fashion, act "too cool for school". I order a coke, "Coke nueang" which means "one coke." Quantity for some reason must be stated. "Coke one," he says, with no intonation in his voice. His face is no less than quizzical. I admit I am a little homesick for a fat BBQ sandwich and a side of broccoli casserole from Daddy D's back in the sweet ATL.
We live in an area called KuKu where tourists don't venture much. We moved from the rustic bungalow in Chalong because we were going have to wait two months for internet. Our new leasing agent Joy is Thai/Chinese, and from I am told, is considered to be high(er) society than Thai. I do not know why just yet. I will learn. She speaks a little English and is our liaison between the housekeeping staff and the girl who works at the mini-mart in the bottom of the complex where we make frequent water runs "nam plow" (bottled water). Last week, Joy arranged food and drink on a card table outside of the leasing office. Curious, I asked what the 'free food' was for worried that the meat baking in the sun is well, unsanitary. She told me the food was for the spirits and "for to be put at the tenth of month, but I am late; it is twelve." And with that, she giggled and I continued fondling the arrangement with my eyes. Why didn't I know about this ritual already?I feel embarrassed. There were six different juices, soup, a whole bird, candles and incense burning. Quite a spread for the spirits.
We live in an area called KuKu where tourists don't venture much. We moved from the rustic bungalow in Chalong because we were going have to wait two months for internet. Our new leasing agent Joy is Thai/Chinese, and from I am told, is considered to be high(er) society than Thai. I do not know why just yet. I will learn. She speaks a little English and is our liaison between the housekeeping staff and the girl who works at the mini-mart in the bottom of the complex where we make frequent water runs "nam plow" (bottled water). Last week, Joy arranged food and drink on a card table outside of the leasing office. Curious, I asked what the 'free food' was for worried that the meat baking in the sun is well, unsanitary. She told me the food was for the spirits and "for to be put at the tenth of month, but I am late; it is twelve." And with that, she giggled and I continued fondling the arrangement with my eyes. Why didn't I know about this ritual already?I feel embarrassed. There were six different juices, soup, a whole bird, candles and incense burning. Quite a spread for the spirits. 
Lee and I and his friend Dan from the US, went to The Chalong Fair a few weeks ago. The fair was once a celebration of the Chinese New Year, but over the years became less religious and more carnival-esque. Like Easter. The festival reminded me of a county fair back home complete with darts, dunking booths, cotton candy and stuffed animals minus the formidable, shimmering temple as a backdrop. Rides minimal. This best part for me personally was the shopping. Labyrinths of tents and sweaty vendors tempting you with junky treasures. Flat irons for 100 baht, makeup, hand-made clothing, toy guns, jewelry, house hold products, containers, lions, tigers and bears, oh my! There was also a booth designed for the 'extra large' tourist. To promote the merchandise, two Thai girls squeeze in to one pair of pants and shout, "Big sizes! Big sizes!" OK, we're all fat pigs, I get it. There are also a variety of fried insects available for snacks, which I passed on. The whole experience felt a little like an acid trip--but in a good way. 
Fried bugs at Chalong Fair
There was a beach party to celebrate the closing of the regatta yacht races, which Thais, Europeans and a handful of Americans organize. There must have been a few hundred people there. Red lanterns were sagging from treetops that canopied the path from the beach and the road. Traditional Thai music was playing and a pony- tailed middle-aged man was playing an amplified violin. In the forefront, a sultry tanned Brazilian vocalist was tapping a tambourine on her hip. As I am standing there alone watching the performance, I hear over my shoulder in english,
"I'm soo in love with her." Someone clearing crushing on the performer.
Lee was a busy taking photos of the winners of the boat races. He also had to twist his own arm to snap a few shots of the Thai pageant girls. The girls would slither out on to the stage and contort their boyish frames in to curvy silhouettes. I took some live footage of this to send to my friend Steve back home. What I would have given to have him there to witness the menagerie of temptresses. He could have totally pulled off his faux Kiwi accent. Everyone there was too drunk and the music too loud to understand each other anyway. A German guy told me I sounded Spanish? I ran with it of course.
"Oh jes, I am from espain."
On the quieter side of the beach and away from the stage, paper lanterns were released in to the sky and floated up over a sullen tide and in to darkness. Watching the lanterns lift off is an exhilarating experience. If you stand too close, the smell of butane burning may spoil the illusion that a soft candle is whispering inside the delicate paper, so it's best to stand a few feet away. The lanterns symbolize loved ones who have passed on. You pay 100 baht and make a wish. I definitely had a few people in mind as the lanterns flickered and giggled over the ocean. I imagined those people were saying hello to me and laughing at my ignorance. I called my mom as I paced in figure eights along side the water's shore. A little high on cheap wine, I had to tell her about the lanterns.
Lee was a busy taking photos of the winners of the boat races. He also had to twist his own arm to snap a few shots of the Thai pageant girls. The girls would slither out on to the stage and contort their boyish frames in to curvy silhouettes. I took some live footage of this to send to my friend Steve back home. What I would have given to have him there to witness the menagerie of temptresses. He could have totally pulled off his faux Kiwi accent. Everyone there was too drunk and the music too loud to understand each other anyway. A German guy told me I sounded Spanish? I ran with it of course.
"Oh jes, I am from espain."
On the quieter side of the beach and away from the stage, paper lanterns were released in to the sky and floated up over a sullen tide and in to darkness. Watching the lanterns lift off is an exhilarating experience. If you stand too close, the smell of butane burning may spoil the illusion that a soft candle is whispering inside the delicate paper, so it's best to stand a few feet away. The lanterns symbolize loved ones who have passed on. You pay 100 baht and make a wish. I definitely had a few people in mind as the lanterns flickered and giggled over the ocean. I imagined those people were saying hello to me and laughing at my ignorance. I called my mom as I paced in figure eights along side the water's shore. A little high on cheap wine, I had to tell her about the lanterns.
All Photos are Copyright 2008.
That's all for now.
Stephanie
1 comment:
It looks like you are having a good time, I am so glad you are doing well. I Love You Steph,
Chris
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